PzKpfw I Ausf.A ohne Aufbau ~ Tristar

[Jamie Tainton]

The strengthening bar is complete with the addition of two small bolts added to the rectangular piece as well as the "S" part.


Because I want to keep the drive wheels off for further work and access, I want to postpone the attachment of them to the part that goes on the inside of the hull that the wheel gets glued to. Using the brake parts that come with the Aber set- I made a hole in the centre of the resin on the back to help locate the part properly. Next I cut a disc from sheet plastic using a pin in a pin vise that was used to score a circle with in a circle template. This was glued to the back of the resin part. This was needed to fill a small gap between the Tristar part and the resin part- basically to snug up the fit and ensure the pin on the outside would contact the drive wheel when it was to be attached later in the assembly process.














Just a dry fit after gluing the two break parts to ensure proper alignment.

[Jamie Tainton]

Another teaser with a rough dry fit of the front armour


I needed to add a bit of plastic and putty to get the profile right on the sides of the rear enginge cover.


The fender is fitting pretty good.


Here is the one from the other side this series of pics will show how I am using some brass rod soldered into the two holes on the side of the fender to help with placement and securing of the fender onto the hull side. This whole joint will be susceptible to fracture and these pins will help solidify things.






Soldered on the outside to ensure a flush fit




There are holes drilled into the plastic corresponding to the fender pins.
More details added.


These will form the front parts meant to secure the front curved mud flaps This is one of the most tedious aspects of this fender construction.


Be sure to insert the part bent into a U which fits into the slots.


Both nicely fitted- finally a sense of progress!

[Dan Reed]

Good idea on the pins.
"Work smarter, not harder"!
Dan

[Jamie Tainton]

Well it's more like "live and learn"

The fit is pretty good- I was happy with it. Remember all this stuff is a work in process and the polish maybe a bit rough but in the end it will all be cleaned up and neat and tidy.
I actually needed to sand the underside back end armour down to get the fender parts to fit better. I'll replace the circular access panel with the Aber item. I also had to sand the upper panel as well - removing the molded on air ventilation openings -these will again be replaced with some Aber parts. The rear part of the main engine hatch at the back was also given a strip of plastic to help make up some negative space. This was sanded down as well to fit in-line with the angle of the upper panel. The ventilation openings needed to be cut out and sanded before the Aber parts are added. These BTW should be added after the fenders and back flange are in place- those need to be positioned without any impediments.






Here's the cover screens that will be added. There are some rivets that need to be embossed.




The opening up of the venting areas is started with a small drill bit drilled in a few places with the area to be removed. Then a larger drill bit is used and finally a craft knife and file to finish it off.












After doing all the necessary embossing the pre-bent flange part is soldered to the fender via the rear mud flap attachment point.


The circular access hatch needs some bolt heads soldered on.






The upper areas were sanded some to remove some problem areas- but you can see the fuel ports are still not totally flush. Tristar could have done a better job with the fit of these parts.


Just a test fit-it works!

[Markus Lack]

Wow, that´s just Wow...
Seriously James, I really envy you because of your skills and patience. You do a great job and I can´t thank you enough for all the work you are doing with your blogs. Right before I open one, I know there will be something new to learn.
Just one question. Why do you use these etched nuts? Wouldn´t it be better to use some punched ones or some Aftermarket resin or plastic ones? I think it would be a bit easier and there won´t be any risk to have some residue from the sprue on it? I believe either LionRoar or MIG do some etched ones without any attachment point as well. I have some LionRoar screws and the look fantastic.

[Jamie Tainton]

[Markus Lack]

[Jamie Tainton]

Here are some e-bay pics- there maybe some pz I/B in there-

[Markus Lack]

Thanks a bunch for sharing all these images James!

[Jamie Tainton]

Sorry for not being able to update this lately- been having to give all my time to a painting I've been working on for Dragon, gotta get it done. I'll try and take some shots of fender damage I inflicted for the look I want later.