Anyways this allowed me to re-solder some weak points and also repair the leg. I also was able to then after cleaning to use a rattle can of metal primer from Tamiya. A small amount decanted into the airbrush cup was all that was needed.
This will provide a better base for the red primer and green colours that will follow. I also took the opportunity to rework the two clasps that are on the right hand side of the hull wall. These were used to hold a container housing spare machine gun barrels I believe. Since this is a trainer vehicle there wouldn't be any need for this item. The Tristar instructions also indicate this as well but there are no clamps, which would most likely be left behind. I also made the effort to use some solder to secure the handles of the clamps in place rather than CA as I did in the first time. Everything was tidied up and I'm happier with the results.
A couple of other detail parts readied for paint and gluing. I have found that the tolerances for everything to fit inside the hull to be very very tight. Because this is my first time using this kit to detail one of these Tristar's Pz I/As out I am trying to have access to all the storage areas under the floor plates. But this may be a bit anal. I guess it seems a shame to just cover up all the inner workings. I would recommend that the whole floor section, floor plates and framing, could be soldered together and made square and secure prior to installing. One may even want to construct this all before gluing the plastic side walls onto the hull-just to assure a good fit.
I also had to fix the centre hub section as it was to wide at the front end. The metal end pieces needed to be removed cleaned and then annealed and reshaped to a slightly narrower width so the plate framing and plates would fit better it was too tight before. Thus the previous comment about tolerances
These were then re-glued to the stripped resin part and everything was secured to the floor again. Much better this time.
The Aber set even has replacements for the funny little S shaped parts that go on the strengthening bar of the suspension. Pretty difficult but I got two good ones.
It takes three pieces to make one.
The return rollers also have replacements for the centre hubs. I don't know if it is very much of an improvement but because I have this compulsion to use all of the Aber parts, at least once I went ahead and used them.
Next up you can see I am getting some caliber 35 resin nuts ready for the adjustment rod that is at the back of the rear suspension part. You can see them threaded onto some brass rod. The rod will be cut to size and fitted in a drilled out hole in the plastic part and glued to the square metal part. The Aber nuts are to thin in my opinion. I also added one to the inside of the rectangular opening- Aber doesn't indicate to but references say there is one there as well as the two on the outside.
The idler wheel needs some fixing up to fit onto the diameter of the brass axle that will be threaded thru the side of the metal square part. Basically using brass rod to create some sleeves.
After that the metal can be sanded flush.
Here you can see the parts needed for the road wheels, a different approach than how DML did theirs with metal rings.
The rings are very fragile and for cleaning up of attachment points I threaded them over a big paint brush handle before sanding.
Make sure you glue the rings facing out the right way The flat side should be facing out.
Couple of comparison shots showing the re worked part and the original.
