Sd.Kfz. 222 Leichter Panzerspahwagen (2cm) Mid ~ Tristar

[Tim Coulson]

Looking good Jamie.

[Jamie Tainton]

Thanks Tim, this one is finally coming to the point where I can start having some fun. Here you can see the last few bits are added. Funny that the antennae PE is not even mentioned in the instructions and the way they show to locate is inaccurate. Some of the grey is missing in these pics but the "holidays" will be struck out in due time.

[Dario Risso]

[Jamie Tainton]

[Jamie Tainton]

sorry haven't updated cause I'm struggling with the fabrication of the Notek guard, which I've competed and mounted but now I am trying to get a couple of boxes made for the front fenders, as per the above picture of the real one.
I wonder is there any aftermarket boxes out there?

[Jamie Tainton]

So I finally got the Notek guard finished, soldering brass rod/wire after bending to shape, using the one in the Hobby Boss kit as an example and referring to images from the Toadman CD and the Ryton book. It maybe a tiny bit big but I think it looks pretty good, maybe next time I'll make some kind of jig, but... anyone know of any aftermarket items like these? I don't think PE would work cause it is too flat.
But before we get to that let me show you the decalling after a coat of Future was applied to the grey
I am using the Balken Crosses from the Tristar kit and some rob on DAK symbols from Archer.


This one is done


I'll demonstrate my way of doing it on the other side. First you need to cut out the symbol and then stick a piece of 3M Magic scotch tape to it and then position it onto the model.. The tape holds it in position.


Using a pencil I rub the outer surface to transfer the symbol to the surface of the model.


Peeling back you can see some of the transfer material is not totally smooth, you need to burnish it.


Use the paper that comes with the Archer decal and using something with a smooth edge burnish the spot. I am using an old Letraset burnisher here, from way way back- everyone know what Letraset was?


In this slightly off colour image the shovel is getting some attention. I have taken a toothpick and after inserting it into the chuck of my Dremel , I sanded it into a much smaller diameter. This will be used to replace the plastic handle.


Wood handle glued into the shovel head, which had been drilled out to accept the handle just like a real one, golly


These are the licence plates from the lame-ass Eduard PE set-( I warn all new comers- do not buy Eduard PE for tanks it is shit.)


Here is a shot of the completed Notek guard

[Jamie Tainton]

Glued in place, (looks a bit messy put these are macro and the paint will cover the unsightliness)




Painted with Humbrol 67


decided to glue the shovel in place to cut down on handling, more paint work and aging yet to come. Also will be using a Griffon Models tool holder clasp for the replacement handle.


So next up the boxes. I first made them out of metal cut from a brass flat piece, and then tried a plastic version and then finally went with the metal. I used some Aber hinges that work and everything and decided to use a latch from the Griffon Models set on the front.


You can see the plastic is just to thick, and thinner stuff would warp too much I think. The metal can have the hinges soldered on too.


just a test to see how they look in place


To make the top as in the photo of the real thing the boxes have a lid that is flush with the lower portion, so to achieve this I soldered a piece on to the top of the box, (and bottom) Then the side was scored and scored until I cut through, going all the way around the circumference. This was cleaned up on a sanding block and then the hinges were all attached.

[Jamie Tainton]

Here you can see the top cut away and both the box and lid have had their edges smoothed over. The lid on the upper right is a failed attempt to make a lid with a skirt of metal soldered around a flat piece but it just didn't look god enough, that's why I ended up doing t the way I did.


The Aber hinges.


two halves shaped around a piece of wire- not glued or soldered as I want them to be movable.


One side is soldered to the box rear.


(That's all for now the photos will have to suffice,I'm gonna take a break from the descriptions- gotta jump on the recumbent bike for an hour or so. -check back later)

[Jamie Tainton]

[Dario Risso]

Yep, this confirm, again, what I thought: you are insane!
All the metal parts are awesome; take a look at the first DAK decal, the swastica partially lacks of an arm.
Waiting for updates.
Darío