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headers already sent by (output started at /includes/functions.php:3501) [phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/functions.php on line 4296: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /includes/functions.php:3501) [phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/functions.php on line 4297: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /includes/functions.php:3501) [phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/functions.php on line 4298: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /includes/functions.php:3501) Armour Workshop • View topic - 2cm Flak 38 grouping ~ DML, Tristar, and Italeri
Thanks John, it's hard to find the time to do everything, specially look for and find pics. With this build so far my head has been down and sometimes it's hard to see anything for the trees.
Sorry that I haven't been updating much lately and I still need to add text to some of the previous postings at the time of this posting but I will try and get to that. I do have some images here for you though showing some progress shots. Many times with this type of exploratory research/building I find things out too late to implement them. For example here I have tried to portray the way the cage is attached but alas I would have had to make the cage differently from the beginning to have it work. I soldered these tips on with holes in them that would have fit onto the bearing lube nipples, but when I tried to position it the alignment of everything was off, too high because I was using the DML cage and mounting point as the start for the scratched basket. So I had to remove these for it to work and went back to the two little pins that will insert, inaccurately into the bearing case. Next time I will try for a more accurate assembly, live and learn.
dry fit with the cage - the small shield has been made up and added- a bit of a struggle I must say, and the attachment point to the arm is kinda off as to where it should be but it'll have do be for this build- also the point where the shield goes into the body was a bit tricky to get right as well. The tiny hook brace on the back of the small shield actually did not fit went I positioned the parts for mounting it from the Voyager set, I had to make one from wire.
Here you can see I am attempting to use the PE web cage from the Voyager set - but it was actually not big enough for a proper fit- basically worthless as anytype of "improvement" After these pics I cut it off and set out to find a more natural looking solution.
I looked at several options but it was very difficult to find anything close to the pattern and hole size needed. I eventually found a mesh at a fabric store that was actually the matrix for some fancy type metal ribbon accessory. This needs to be weeded out and then cut and fit. Not sure yet as to how I'm going to do this as the wire in the above shots is far to difficult to use and is out of scale in any case. Since this group of pics I have made some promising experiments. This is the last large hurdle to getting this troublesome build done!
In this pic I have added a thin strip of brass to simulate the two c shaped frames that make up the lower portion of the shell case catcher, in real life these appear to be separable so that it can be opened like a clam shell and empty shells cleaned out.
Which part of the assembly are you actually referring to Jamie? This would be a good time to define which period mount you to depict to make it easier to help. Also which sight you're planning on mounting on it. The sight that is central in that photo is not part of the assembly, but hooks onto it just to the tight of the copyright symbol and above, which you can't see. The assembly in the photo is the mid pattern Flakvisier 38a which has a number of distinct differences from the 38 or assembly modified for the Schwebekreisviser. All depends on how anal retentive you want to be. At this point I really wouldn't worry too much whilst the main assembly is wrong.
That hood is just a bit of pressed tin with a reinforced strip that spans the middle. This photo should give you a good idea of the hood and what lies underneath.