1/35 Neubau-Fahrzeug, Rheinmetall-Fahrgestell und Krupp-Turm

[Jamie Tainton]

This one is on the way from dragon USA do keep your eyes peeled will be starting this one as soon as it drops into my mailbox as I have always desired this in plastic form.

[David Madsen]

Ohhh, nice. I really look forward to this, I do enjoy inter-war afv's.

[Jamie Tainton]

Okay to get started I'll post the instruction sheet...

[Jamie Tainton]

And to get the mood for this vehicle going...

These will have the other type of Neubau as well as this one, known as the No. 2 vehicle.

[Jamie Tainton]

[David Madsen]

Those are some great photos Jamie. This tank was much larger than I realized, it's quite the beast! Look forward to your progress. This tank actually reminds me of the soviet T-28.

[Jamie Tainton]

Yeah Dave- I have a soft spot for these land battleship multi-turret behemoths. I do have the Soviet 28 and T 35 in my collection of kits to build. I have been thinking of pulling them out, blowing off the dust and building them along side this one just for the fact they are all from the similar early days of armour development.

So let's start with the obligatory sprue shots. Which I have sort of only half halfheartedly created as I rarely look very close at this type of info, how about all of you, do you find the photos of any use?
Sprue "A"


Sprue "B"


Sprue "C"


Sprue "D"
There are 2 of these


The tracks are not the user friendly "Magic Tracks" variety. There are 7 0f these "G" sprues


They main hull part is a single piece which will make those that whine about the number of parts happy. I personally like as many parts as it takes to make a kit more accurate. This is Tamiya like in it's simplicity overall.

[Jamie Tainton]

Okay for the first step we are talking Lots of fucking wheels!
Thought doing a Panzer IV was tiresome with all the clean up on the road wheels- well this is the next level. Try and be patient.
In this pile you see the main drive sprocket wheel parts D7 D27 D6, idler wheels D14 D13, D8 D9 A13 A12 A14 A15, road wheels halves D10 D28, suspension parts D23 D24, D12 D11, (careful these are handed and care and attention needs to be implemented when assembling these) And there are some of the upper return roller mounting parts here as well D20 and D21.


this shot shows only the lower portion of road wheels ( 10 pair!) as well as the drive wheels etc. Later we will cover the upper 8 pair of return rollers.









These are the handed parts to which the road wheel assemblies attach. I personally wish the attachment points that is the length of the pins and depth of the holes were bigger and therefore stronger, and while better than the old resin Armo kit the engineering could have been better. Just make sure everything is fully cured before handling too much.

[Jamie Tainton]

I have always wanted to have one of these in my collection but because of several reasons, basically only available as a rather expensive, rare, expensive, crude, expensive and troubled resin kit this plastic is a great addition to the injection mold models out there.
so as mentioned the attachment points


What I decided to do, and something you need not consider as the construction will be fine as indicated in the kit and the instructions, is I replaced all the attachment points with brass rod. I drilled out the paces necessary and thread the brass rod through and cleaned everything up. I did this because I plan on doing a lot of handing during the painting phase and wanted something that I would not have to re glue every five minutes! I want to be able to take the wheels out of the brackets to paint thoroughly and then be able to put them back after. The way they want you to do it.. ehh ...it wouldn't be strong enough for all that. They need to be glued and then you can paint.
This is my early rendition of the brass rod way, I didn't drill all the way through on the outer parts, but in the end I did, onto which Aber brass nuts were glued, as it appears to me that there is a nut in the photo of the real thing at these points.


side view


the early rendition, the final way will have longer lengths of brass rod.


two suspension parts D23 and D24 are drilled out here. Notice the different look of the central hub, this is the handedness of the parts.


the other parts D11 and D12 drilled out and their points of attachment fitted with brass rods. The part in the middle is unaltered (a D12 item I believe?)


early fitting together.


In this pic the second version where the brass rods are longer and show through at the ends of the suspension parts as seen by the shiny brass ends are visible here.
I've also added some spacers between the spaces indicated before just to solidify things up.


a brass rod used to make sure all the wheels are parallel


some clean up with a file is still required before the Nuts are added




here you can see the nuts added


the suspension parts dry fitted and the bottom plate

[Jamie Tainton]

It's unfortunate there is no interior -even a basic one included as the hatches can't really be shown open without a figure perhaps jammed in there to block the view. But even then...


The bottom C6 and back plate A30 in place at Steps 3 and 4