As I said, you not only have to sand the glacis down to the roof level but, as I did, add apiece of styrene, L shapes, in order to re create the front plate angle. Do you see what I mean ?
Then as did Larry Bates re work on the foremost part of the roof.
once it is sanded :
You have to re create the "seam" between the gmacis and roof and then re create the angle of the front plate/
You can see the L shaped part in white here :
Here's the result. The top of the front plate is slightly higher than the roof but reduced to scale this is on ly half a millimeter (more or less).
Here's a (not scale) drawing I hope it'll explain what I'm trying to say.
on real tanks, this difference in height is not always the same. Small variations exist for example between the bovington panther (as seen on Dennis' pics) and the saumur one.
ps : when I say "slightly higher" here's what I mean :
On real German tanks variations +/- 1 cm in armor plates dimensions are considered "ok" by the inspectors.
Cheers.
Laurent.
My current projects :
- StuG III G "late" (90%)
- StuG III g "Early" (99%)
- Pz IV H. (98%)
- Befehlspanther G "R01" (95%)
- Sherman M4A1 "Early" (99%)