Armour Workshop

allright, i try to post something. First i didn't have the chance to born in anglo-saxon country, so i will do a lot of faults, please try to excuse me.
i tent with difficulties to build this kit.
here are some pics of the encountered problems


I think it will take a bath with very hot water to put it straight ahead.
i did this for the gun, which looked like a "sidewinder", germans created the gun able to fire in corners, if GUNZE is right.
The other one is the sprocket wheel which does not match with the tracks. It seems the tracks are 40cms ones and sprocket 36cm !!!
Is it possible to have a panzer IV ausf "G" (beginning of production) with 36cms tracks ? i do not know.

Is this a resin kit? As for the tracks, no G had 36cm tracks. 40cm tracks started with the F with some E and D being retrofitted. Funny thing about the tracks, 36cm were the width of the links without the track pins installed they were 38cm with the pins but everybody refers to them as 36cm. But the 40cm tracks were the width of the links with the pins installed, they were actually 38cm without the pins but everybody refers to them as the 40cm tracks. Just some useless trivia.

ROy

good evening, thank you for the answer, this kit is definitively bad. And it is not resin it is plastic kit, GUNZE exactly.

geeze, I remember a time when those were the cream of the crop!

i agree. But i think it was a legend propagated by newspapers, because this kit is not very good. The assembly instructions is imprecise, some parts are not mentioned, but i try to finish it.

some news,


i think i will have some problems more....
and then, the tracks

these tracks are difficult, i think i need experience, because i a not very satisfied.

Maybe reconsider wasting your time on this and get a new generation DML Panzer IV?

I can see a couple of issues, one is your lower rear hull plate is warped and two the upper rear plate and the lower rear plate should mate together without any gaps. Yours has a big gap which may be caused by the warped part. As for your tracks, did you form them over the suspension? Non workable Link to Link tracks can be put together in several ways. I always make one long run of approximately the right number of tracks (+/- 1 or 2) and use a slow setting liquid cement (Testors is good for this) and using the brush, cement the entire run in one shot. Let it set for about a minute then place the tracks over the suspension. Do it in such a way as the loose ends meet on the straight bottom run that way if you need to add or subtrack a link it is in an easy place to do so. The slower setting cement allows you to manipulate the tracks for a while getting the right sag and such. Workable tracks are a different game and much easier in my opinion.

Roy