Another old build started 04-25-2009 on the old web site- hope to finish this year sometimePicked up one of these halftracks from Magicbox Hobbies yesterday
I wish to hell that Dragon would create a Sd.Ah.115 for us to use with the Prime mover version.
[QUOTE=whatifwhat;76208]Did the chassis in your kit have any warp?
Mine had a slight warp. I read that others have had more significan warp.[/QUOTE]
I'm sorry to hear that.
I'll tell you what, whatifwhat if you were to add your real name to your profile your allegation and claim of warped chassis parts would hold more validity. No offense intended Sir, it's just I mean you could just be trying to anonymously stir up some trouble and stir the pot. Do you think you could kindly add your real name?:)
In any case my chassis part is straight as can be.
Well I don't know about Terry's or any one else's I guess it's the luck of the draw. Sometimes these things happen, Someone was asking about the Tristar hull being warped on my Flak Panzer I project- his was warped, while I can testify mine wasn't.
Same here in this case.
Well I took the opportunity to go to the beach yesterday, and well, to pass the time i took the Sd.Kfz.7 along for company.
Here was the view.
[imghttp://panzerfaust.netfirms.com/armourworkshop.ca/blog_images/sdkfz_7_1/web_sdkfz_7_1_pt_1/workbench.jpg[/img]
and the "workbench"...
some shots of the frame as I progressed.
Here are some better shots under more controlled conditions.
Several items are only dry fit for a quick look.
Some update pics from the beach showing the parts that make up the front cab and bed.
Some in house shots...everything fits wonderfully
For those who still may think the Tamiya kit is okay- I wouldn't waste my time if I were you- if time is money the Tamiya one will end up costing you a fortune!:p
And to address you query Saul- these are just friction fitted. I think they would be the best option available when looking at what is out there.
The top left is the DML one, the one on the right a french aftermarket item meant for the Tamiya kit
bottom left - the Tamiya wheels and next to it I think that is the Tankwork shop resin copy.
Also compare the two tires at PMMS
It seems to me more work would be involved in sanding down the seam on the Trumpeter vinyl?
[QUOTE=sharkmouth;76304]Thanks James for the reply,
When the time comes and if there is a seam to fill, I am wondering how difficult it will be (the seam between the Polystyrene/Vinyl blend and the straight Polystyrene). I think this is the first time I see a seam placed on a part where it didn't fall on a natural gap.
I believe the French one is from Sinifer.
Regards,
Saúl[/QUOTE]
Time to start putting paint on this so as I can go on with attaching separate items. I pre-shaded with a primer coat of Humbrol oil based enamel reduced for the air brush with Humbrol thinner to get a smooth coat, (not pebbly if I was to use cellulose thinner) ;)
After this was dry I next used a Humbrol #73 for the primer base. This is a bit hotter than my usual #113- I have seen it this hot and thought I'd try something different. I plan on using some stop out (Vallejo) to get some cheeps here and there, mostly on the fenders.
In this pic you can see the drive wheel with the plastic cylinder at the centre. I decided to sand this thin and then remove, cleaned up the area and then glued the PE part that I soldered together (after annealing), in it's place. Dragon asks you to wrap this around the plastic tube at the centre of the out half of the wheel but this seemed a bit thick for my tastes. A minor adjustment that was fairly easily accomplished- but care needs to be taken so as not to botch it up. I had to trim slightly less than a millimetre to adjust the size of the centre PE cylinder, so as it would look in place of the plastic one.