Tamiya Sd.Kfz.171 Panther Ausf.G Late (Remote Control)

[Tim Coulson]

[Jamie Tainton]

Yes these seem to be more concrete and you can see the parts better.

[Tim Coulson]

I thought I would post a brief update before the end of the year.

I haven't been able to do as much modelling as I hoped recently as I moved house and country in the summer, so my time has been taken up with other things.

Hopefully the New Year will bring more modelling time!

Just a couple of quick photos of the etch that I've been working on the past week. It's just bent to shape at the moment so excuse the gaps.

I annealed the etch over a candle and shaped the etch over the kit track guards. I left the parts in vinegar for a while to clean them up.


I used a ball point pen to make the lines and domes, pressing onto a cork coaster.


Excuse the finger marks! I used the brass tube to help curve the end cap.


Happy New Year.

Tim

[Jamie Tainton]

[Tim Coulson]

After an enforced break from modelling recently, due to ill health, it was good to get back at my workbench last night.

I have been working on Aber etch sets for the Panther recently. I started working on the cleaning rod stowage tube and I found that the brackets that hold the tube in place didn't match up to the Panzer Tracts book.

I successfully modified one of the brackets but I snapped off a piece of the other as the incorrectly etched fold line gave way. Looking through the etch frets for the Panther, I found that the fret that contains parts for the periscopes was the correct width and had sufficient length to be used as a replacement. I used a pair of multi purpose titanium scissors (think of a swiss army penknife but it is a pair of scissors that includes rope cutter, wirecutter, bottle opener and titanium scissor blade) that I had for Christmas to cut the fret to size. I was pleased with the results and it will definitely come in handy for cutting brass and wire.

I used the modified Aber part as a guide for folding the replacement bracket using my hold and fold "bug" and formed it around the tube.

Aber Instructions showing how the original part (6) looked.


Compare it to the Panzer Tracts drawing. I still need to file down the top right angle on my replacement bracket as it is a little long. Strangely the bracket and clamp for the wreaking bar stored on outside of the tube are not included in the set but are in the 1/16 version.



The modified Aber part (top bracket) and replacement bracket made from a piece of etch fret.



I've also found that an Aber part for the crew heater is upside down. It's correctable but annoying.

I will post more when I am able.

Tim

[Tim Coulson]

I won a lot of Dragon Panther G parts on eBay recently, so I will also be enhancing the kit with these too.

[Roy Schlicht]

[Tim Coulson]

[Tim Coulson]

I did my first etched brass soldering the other day on the track guards using this method. http://www.modelarmour.com/index.php?op ... &Itemid=85

A bit different from Jamie's technique, but I can use both methods with my soldering iron. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-Hobby-Ve ... roduct_top

I'm using a regular flux paste from LA-CO and solder paste from CuP Alloys in the UK.

I practised on some pieces of etch fret first and then gave it a go. Clean with fibre pen, add flux and paste, secure, add heat, joint done!

I will update with my photos/results ASAP. Not up to Jamie's standards, but I'm pleased with the results and I will be soldering more in the future!

A tip I found useful in Tony Greenland's Panzer Modelling book. When using a glass fibre pen dip the tip in dish washing liquid before use. This will stop the fibres from flying in all directions.

Tim

[Tim Coulson]

My soldering iron with and without soldering tip. Without the tip the iron produces a fine blue cone flame. The iron usually lights first time using the built in lighter at the top of the photo. The blue part on the lighter is a safety switch that prevents accidental ignition. The two switches on the side control the temperature and lock the ignition on for extended use. When using the flame to melt the solder only a few seconds of use is required. Cigarette lighter gas is used to power the iron. I will be trying out the tip soon, the manual says it takes about 25 sec to heat up with the tip on.


My first soldering on the track guard, shown after cleanup with a glass fibre pen.


I'll fill in the gap with Milliput putty and sand to shape.


Underside.


Upper hull at the moment with the track guards, engine deck, aerial mount and right side fan cover removed, ready to receive new Dragon parts. I used an etched saw to remove the deck.


Some of the spare parts I bought on eBay.


Dragon engine deck with correct shape engine access hatch. Unfortunately no access hatch was in the spares so I bought the Tiger Models resin Panther deck, which includes two hatches and another engine deck that I can use on my other Panther.



Dragon crew compartment heater, soon to receive extra detail and cast surface texture on the vertical sides.


Tim